Knowing how to keep your dog cool in hot weather means controlling access to water, shade, and airflow, keeping exercise to the cooler parts of the day, and recognising the early signs of overheating before they become dangerous. Dogs do not sweat the way we do. When the temperature climbs, they rely entirely on panting and the few sweat glands they have in their paws to regulate their body temperature.
I have watched a dog go from fine to struggling in what felt like minutes on a warm afternoon. The panting changed, their energy dropped and their usual enthusiasm for a game completely disappeared. And that wasn’t on an extreme weather day, I just misjudged how little margin there was between comfortable and overheated.
Water Access Throughout the Day
Dogs need constant access to fresh water when the temperature rises. Not just a bowl in the morning. Not just after a walk. All day, in multiple locations if possible, kept cool and topped up regularly.
I refill the water bowl more than seems necessary on hot days. Dogs drink differently when they are trying to cool down rather than just hydrating. They take in more, more often, and if the bowl runs dry or gets warm, they stop drinking even when they need it.
If you are out for any length of time, take water with you. A collapsible bowl or a bottle with a built-in tray works. Stop and offer it before the dog starts searching for puddles or standing water, which they will absolutely do if they are thirsty enough.
Shade and Airflow Where They Rest
Dogs left in direct sun, even with water, will overheat. Shade matters, proper, consistent shade that covers the whole dog throughout the afternoon.
- Indoor spaces with airflow are better than outdoor shade on very hot days. A fan pointed near where they rest helps, though not directly on them for hours at a time.
- Tiled or cool floor surfaces let them spread out and lose heat through contact. Carpet and bedding trap warmth, and most dogs will avoid them entirely when it is hot.
- Conservatories, cars, and garden sheds become dangerously hot even with windows cracked. Dogs left in these spaces, even briefly, can overheat within minutes.
I learned not to assume a dog will move to the coolest spot on their own. Some will others settle where they always settle, even if it is too warm, and stay there because it is familiar. If the usual spot is no longer the coolest one, move the bed or close off access to that room.
Timing and Intensity of Exercise
Exercise during the middle of the day in hot weather is where most problems start. Pavements heat up well beyond air temperature, and a dog moving across hot tarmac or concrete is heating from below while panting to cool from above. It does not work.
Walk early in the morning or late in the evening when the ground has cooled. Press the back of your hand to the pavement for five seconds. If it is uncomfortable for you, it is too hot for a dog’s pads and too hot for sustained exercise.
Shorten the walk if needed. A ten-minute loop in the cool of the evening is better than a half-hour slog in afternoon heat. The Dog Years to Human Years Calculator gives a sense of where your dog is in terms of age and capacity, which helps when deciding how much to cut back as they get older and heat tolerance drops.
Play and training sessions indoors replace some of the missed outdoor time without the heat risk. Not every day needs a long walk. Some days just need enough movement to keep them settled.
Cooling Methods That Work
Cooling a dog down is not about drastic temperature changes. It is about giving them ways to lose heat gradually without stressing the system further.
- A damp towel laid over their back or draped somewhere they can lie on it helps. Avoid soaking them completely or using very cold water, which can cause the blood vessels to constrict and trap heat inside rather than releasing it.
- Cooling mats filled with gel or water-activated fabric give them a cool surface to lie on without needing refrigeration. Some dogs use them instinctively. Others ignore them entirely.
- Frozen treats or ice cubes in the water bowl give them something cold to interact with. Not a solution on their own, but part of a broader approach to keeping their core temperature stable.
Related: What Is the Best Cooling Mat for an Older Dog?
I have tried freezing toys filled with wet food or broth, and it keeps a dog occupied and cool at the same time. They work at it, stay in one place, and take in something cold while they are focused. It does not replace water or shade, but it adds another tool.
Recognising Overheating Before It Becomes Dangerous
The signs of overheating start subtle and escalate quickly. Panting is normal in warm weather. Heavy panting that does not ease when the dog rests is not. Drooling more than usual, a tongue that looks darker or swollen, or gums that seem tacky rather than wet all indicate the dog is struggling to cool down.
If a dog becomes lethargic, unsteady, or stops responding normally, they are past the early warning stage. Vomiting, collapse, or seizures mean the situation is critical, and you need a vet immediately.
Move the dog to a cool, shaded area. Offer water but do not force it. Use cool, not cold, water on their paws, belly, and the back of the neck. Fan them gently if possible. Get them to a vet even if they seem to recover, because internal damage from overheating can develop after the visible signs improve.
For more information, the read Signs Your Dog Is Overheating (and What to Do Immediately)
Breeds and Dogs at Higher Risk
Flat-faced breeds struggle more in heat because their shortened airways make panting less effective. Bulldogs, Pugs, French Bulldogs, and similar breeds overheat faster and recover slower than dogs with longer muzzles.
Older dogs, overweight dogs, and those with heart or respiratory conditions also have less capacity to regulate their temperature. What feels manageable for a young, fit dog may be too much for one carrying extra weight or dealing with an underlying health issue.
Thick-coated breeds do not always struggle more than short-haired ones, but they need more help staying cool. Their coat insulates in both directions, trapping heat if they cannot find shade or airflow. Shaving them down is not always the answer and can sometimes make things worse by removing the layer that protects them from direct sun.
What Does Not Work
Leaving a dog in a car with the windows cracked does not keep them cool. The temperature inside a car rises faster than outside, even in shade, even with airflow. There is no safe version of this. If you cannot take the dog inside with you, leave them at home.
Relying on a paddling pool or hose without shade and water access does not solve the problem either. Some dogs love water and will use a pool to cool down. Others will not go near it, and if that is the only cooling method available, it is not doing anything.
Fans blowing on a dog help if there is airflow in the room, but a fan alone in a closed, hot space just moves warm air around. It’s not really a solution.
Keeping Them Comfortable Without Overdoing It
There is a version of trying to keep a dog cool that becomes stressful in itself. Constantly adjusting things, moving them from room to room, checking them every few minutes. Dogs pick up on that, and it does not help.
Set up what they need early in the day. Water in multiple places. Shade or a cool room. Timing for exercise that avoids the heat. Then let them settle. Check in periodically, but trust that if the basics are covered, they will manage the rest. Most dogs are good at finding the coolest spot available and staying there until the temperature drops.
This article is for informational purposes only. For advice specific to your dog always speak to your vet.